The un-athletic, low self-esteemed banana leaf may not lend itself to many uses – it can’t be weaved into personality-free Ikea furniture; it can’t be worn by hula girls to cover their ‘alohas’ when they dance; and, most tragically, it can’t be recreationally smoked. But when unfurled onto a table at an Indian eatery, the bloodless banana leaf blooms into an extravagant platter for cuisine you’d go bananas over; a magical portal into a world of gastronomic greatness; and a lush playground where foodies slide down mounds of meats and swim in pools of gravies. The soft cradle of a unique South Indian culinary institution – Banana Leaf Rice – the banana leaf has become as indispensible to dining as its illustrious and notoriously phallic fruit. And in the Klang Valley, one of the restaurants where the banana leaf flag flies highest is Restoran Sri Grand City, in PJ’s Section 11.
The place
Ground zero for banana leaf cuisine for the past 40 years, Restoran Sri Grand City draws salivating patrons from far and wide, many of whom think nothing of waiting in line for up to 45 minutes for a table (they’ve taken ‘leaf’ of their senses). It’s mellow, welcoming ambience; comfortable, air-conditioned premises; and warm, Swiss watch-efficient service put eating establishments of all types to shame – but it’s really the restaurant’s now-mythological offerings which diners wrestle each other for access to. And I, after a sari-unraveling scuffle with hordes of other visitors recently, managed to secure a seat for my latest Banana Leaf Rice entanglement.
The food
Within minutes, a gigantic, airplane wing-sized-and-shaped banana leaf floated onto my table, and was promptly anchored in position by a generous portion of rice and three vegetable dishes, namely: Kerala-style Potato and Long Beans in sour Yoghurt Gravy; Cabbage and Dhal Perattal; and sour Tomato Pachidi, as well as four different curries, including Sambar and Venthaya Kuzhambu. Accompanying the dishes, like rock star groupies, were complimentary portions of Papadam and Rasam (the usual suspects), as well as 4 loose-cannon condiments: Inji Puli, pickled chilies, Pudina Sambal and mango pickles. All this was mine to whack for just RM8.
Vegetable Cutlet
And whack them to glory I did: the sour vegetables were excellently-prepared using fresh, top-notch ingredients, and boasted tangy flavours and distinctive textures that were absolutely divine. Even the common-as-grass Cabbage Perattal had me licking my fingers with juvenile delight. Rating: 9 out of 10.
The curries were not to be underestimated either – the Sambar was a trapeze balancing act of sour and salty (although, I’ve had better); while the healthful Venthaya was toe-curlingly pungent and delightfully third degree burn-causing spicy. Rating: 8 out of 10, and 9 out of 10 respectively. As for the Rasam – it was perfectly good, but not enough to be memorable and fodder for future food-related anecdotes. Rating: 8 out of 10.
Tofu Sambal
While I had my face buried in my banana leaf, I managed to order two side dishes I had been eager to gorge on: a boulder-sized Vegetable Cutlet, priced at RM2 and Tofu Sambal, also RM2. The former was a spirit-dampening disappointment – I found it dry and bland, and its excessive bread crumb content was ruinous. Rating: 5 out of 10. The latter dish, on the other hand, played my palate like a boss – though, with my cast-iron tongue, its non-lava-level spiciness failed to fully satisfy my raging gastronomic masochism. Rating: 9.3 out of 10.
Still upright and conscious, I decided to cap my epic meal with a dessert, and was about to order when I realized that I hadn’t touched my complimentary steel tumbler of Kerala-style Payasam (what was I, crazy?!). Luxuriously thick and creamy – with the added texture of the playfully-swirling beads of sago, and coconut chunks and shavings – the majestically sweet Payasam was a terrific treat. Rating: a perfect 10 out of 10. (Don’t play-play).
Restoran Sri Grand City
No. 51, Jalan Dato Mahmud 11/4
Seksyen 11, 46200, Petaling Jaya
Hours: 7am to 10.30pm daily
Tel: 03 7957 3158
Web: www.srigrandcitycaterers.com
Based on an article published by militant foodie, omnipresent shutter bug, indefatigable traveler and bionic blogger, Venoth Nathan, in Venoth’s Culinary Adventure. Images are courtesy of http://venoth.blogspot.my/.