If your work handcuffs you to downtown KL (like me), and you’re suddenly bitch-slapped by an animal craving for quality Malay mixed rice, you’re in trouble. As a rabid foodie who has eaten his way through stalls, food courts, restaurants and mobile phone dealerships serving Malay cuisine across the city, I can tearfully attest that remotely-edible ‘Nasi Campur’ offerings are nowhere on the menu. So I was ‘epically’ surprised when a starving coworker recently introduced me to an eatery near the downtown area which serves a soaring, orchestral medley of ‘who’s your daddy?’ traditional Malay fare.

Tucked away, for some reason, deep in the bowels of Medan Selera Taman Keramat, Warisan Rasa Kuale Ribu-Ribu’s bling-bling name is as much of a mouthful as its overwhelming gastronomic spread. And though its general appearance fails to whet the appetite – grimy, laminated plastic-covered tables, flimsy plastic chairs in their death throes, and dusty, sidewalk pavement flooring dominate the ‘pondok chic’ décor – the eatery’s mountains of fresh offerings wrings one’s salivary glands and puts all aesthetic concerns to sleep.

A gas plant explosion of Malay kampong culinary favourites, Warisan Rasa Kuale Ribu-Ribu’s menu brims over with pond-sized chafing dishes of ‘masak lemak’ specialties, curry delights, calamari noshes, and uniquely-prepared vegetable standards like ‘kangkung belacan’. But the stall’s marquee attractions – the reasons that city-trapped drones like me cling to life long enough for our lunch breaks – are its signature ‘ikan bakar’, ‘ulam’ and grilled booty.

The outlet’s ikan bakar spread comprises an ocean of fish species, including Bawal (RM20), Siakap, Tilapia, Kembung, Keli, Caru, Patin, and even the seemingly-wayward Salmon! The ulam selection, meanwhile, is a United Nations of local herbs, leaves, beans, vegetables and berries, including Pegaga, Petai, Bitter Gourd and Cherry Tomato – and a trio of special sambals faithfully accompanies all greens. Finally, if you’re eager to indulge in the thrill of the grilled, then grandly place orders on grilled meats and seafood such as lamb (RM7) and prawn.

Taste, freshness and quality-wise, Warisan Rasa Kuale Ribu-Ribu’s spread is ‘don’t play-play!’ good, with superb flavours and textures; fresh-from-the-water or just-off-the-tree ingredients; and top-notch stock prepared in ‘powderful’ methods being the invariable order of the day. And make sure you do a LOT of ordering.

Warisan Rasa Kuale Ribu-Ribu
Medan Selera Taman Keramat,
Jalan Enggang, Dato’ Keramat, KL

*Based on an article published by über blogger, food devotee and serial country-hopper KY in the online institution www.kyspeaks.com